Ariston boilers are popular among consumers. But they are not insured against breakdowns, despite the ease of use and ease of installation. In the article we will talk about the malfunctions of the Ariston water heaters. You will learn how to detect a breakdown, repair, or replace a part.
Typical malfunctions of Ariston heaters
Why does the technique not work? The answer to the question will help find the diagnosis or the boiler itself. Modern models are equipped with control boards, which regulate the operation of all nodes in the system. When a malfunction occurs, a fault code is displayed. If there is no display, then the indicators indicate an error (blink).
Decryption of characters will help to solve the problems with the operation of the heater.
Error codes of boilers "Ariston": table
Malfunction code | What does it mean | How to repair |
E01 | There are problems with the management board. | To eliminate a system error, enable and disable the column for 10 minutes. If the error appears again, inspect the board. Perhaps condensation has formed on it. |
E10 | Problems with the temperature sensor. | Check wiring integrity, contact density. Test the sensor with a multimeter. In case of breakage, a replacement is performed. |
E11 | The message about the excess of normal temperature (more than 105 degrees). The reasons:
| DIY repair:
|
E12 | Sensors indicate that the water temperature is 12 degrees above the set. | See code E11. |
E13 | Sensor differential error. Between temperature sensors, the difference in readings is more than 50 ° C. | Diagnostics and installation of new sensors. |
E14 | Error E14 reports: water heats up very slowly. | Make sure the voltage is normal. Descale the heater. |
E15 | The system reports a lack of water in the tank. | Check the presence of water in the water supply, the condition of the safety valve. Replace the defective part. |
Since the boiler is connected to electricity and water supply at the same time, problems may also concern the mains or the safety valve and hoses.
We will analyze the main breakdowns of the Ariston heater:
- Flowed tank.
- The device does not turn on.
- No heating water.
Symptoms may include:
- Long heating.
- Noise during work.
- Water with an unpleasant odor and a cloudy color.
- Quick turn on and off the boiler.
What to do and how to fix the problems, read below.
DIY repair
Some problems can be fixed by yourself. The main thing is to stick to our recommendations.
The water heater does not turn on
First of all, check if there is voltage in the network. You can check this with a screwdriver with an indicator: it should light up on the "Phase", but on "Zero" and "Earth" - not. If the cable insulation is broken, repair is not recommended. It is better to immediately replace the element, but make sure that the new cable matches the old one in terms of parameters.
To diagnose the outlet, connect another device. If it also does not work, the outlet is faulty. To replace it is better to call an electrician.
A short circuit or lack of grounding leads to a permanent shutdown of the RCD machine. The breakdown of the heater in the housing also leads to similar consequences. In this case, the diagnosis and replacement of the element.
The RCD machine could break. To confirm your guess, press RESET on the instrument panel. Is the light on? Means, power is supplied. Then press TEST and RESET again. If the indicator lights up again, the RCD works normally.
The boiler does not heat water
Check the tightness of the contacts between the plug and the outlet. If everything is in order and the voltage is supplied normally, you need to check the heater. Do you have an accumulative type of boiler? Then drain the water first. A volume of water of 50-80 liters can be removed through a faucet. 100 liters and more is better to drain using a valve.
Remove the casing from the wall. Now you need to pull out the flange to which the heater is attached. In "Ariston" 80 liter models, the flange secures only one bolt. In other cases, you will have to unscrew 5 bolts.
Disassembly is performed as follows:
- Scroll the flange axially.
- Pull it out of the tank.
- Diagnosis of the heater is carried out with a multimeter. More details in the article: "Replacing the heater in a water heater."
- If the multimeter needle moves, the part is OK. Standing still? You need to put a new one.
Have you noticed that the water warms longer than usual? This does not mean that the heater is broken. Perhaps the reason is scale: over time, it grows in a thick layer and interferes with normal heat transfer. Clean the item with special tools.
Lack of heat may indicate a thermostat breakdown. Restart on the boiler panel. If you cannot restart the equipment, the thermostat is faulty.
A tester will help to more accurately diagnose a breakdown:
- Set the multimeter to its maximum position.
- Attach the probes to the thermostat contacts (located next to the heater).
- Does the arrow on the screen move? The device is working.
There is another option:
- Heat the thermostat with a lighter.
- Set the multimeter to “minimum”.
- Attach the probes to the contacts.
- If the arrow moves from zero, then the part is functioning normally.
In the event of a malfunction, thermostat must be replaced. Disconnect the wiring from the part, pull it out of the hole.
Installation is carried out in reverse order.
Flowing tank
Found a leak? Carefully inspect all connections, hoses. If everything is in order, you need to inspect the tank itself. Leakage may occur as a result of strong water pressure. If the housing is swollen, check and replace the safety valve.
The destruction of the magnesium anode causes corrosion of the tank. Therefore, it is recommended to replace it once a year.
If the tank "ran", it will not be difficult to disassemble it for inspection. Open the top cover of the product and look inward. Are the walls and heater covered with scale? Need to clean the equipment. Remove the heater and the anode (they are located nearby).
Gently scale all surfaces and walls of the tank. Then rinse with a solution such as "Antinakipin". Install a heater and a new magnesium anode into the cleaned tank.
The accumulation of scale leads to an unpleasant odor of water, its turbidity.
A gasket that secures parts from below can also leak. Inspect it and replace.
All these works can be done independently. Important: disconnect the equipment from the network before starting work.